Ortigia and Sicilian Baroque
Exploring the Timeless Island of Syracuse, Sicily
I don't know if you have a favorite architectural style, or one that simply fascinates you a lot. As an Italian, I'm fortunate to live in a country that is a mosaic of different styles and epochs. And it's always a great charm to immerse oneself in one of these, from ancient Rome to Renaissance Florence. But there's one style that literally drives me wild, and that's Sicilian Baroque.
Perhaps it's because I come from southern Italy, where temperatures are high, summers are longer, the sun is strong and scorching (lately, even too much), and the people are warm, welcoming. Or maybe it's because I have Sicilian origins. But every time I visit those places, it feels like walking lighter.
So last summer, I decided to take a tour in one of the places rich in this architectural style. Specifically, I visited the Island of Ortigia, the old city of Syracuse in eastern Sicily. I don't know if you're familiar with it, but if you're planning a trip to Italy with a stop in Sicily, I recommend going there. It's not too far from Taormina and Mount Etna (two very popular destinations on that side of the island), and you can visit it in a day (but if you can stay overnight, even better).
Ortigia is an island, connected to the city of Syracuse by two large bridges. It's practically almost attached to the mainland, unless you fly in by helicopter, you might not even realize it's an island. If you come, I recommend doing it by car (in general, public transportation is not the strong point of Sicily, it's much better to rent a car) and leave it before the bridges, there are plenty of dedicated parking lots.
Once you enter, it's like being dazzled. The white pavement, the Baroque buildings of this typical light color, combined with the southern sun, are dazzling. It feels like walking in another dimension, or in another era, and just as I imagined, there I was, in shorts and a linen shirt, the heat, the sun, and the search for shade, and why not, a good granita. Hundreds of small alleys that suddenly open into large squares, like Piazza Duomo, an explosion of Sicilian Baroque.
But what exactly is it? It's a style characterized by decorative exuberance, but I would also say very elegant. It arises from a combination of different architectural and artistic influences such as Gothic and Renaissance. It's recognized by the abundant use of decorations, sinuous curves, and elaborate details. But the stone with which it's made is generally light, conveying warmth. In my opinion, it reflects the identity of this land, always a mosaic of colors and sensibilities, shaped by centuries of dominations all different from each other in customs, intelligence, traditions, and characters but all on the same land, characterized by wind, volcanoes, and the sea, rich in scents, flavors, and fairy-tale views warmed by the intense brightness of the sun.
The Englishman Anthony Blunt, an art historian, said that Sicilian Baroque can be "fascinating or repellent, but in any case, the individual viewer's reaction is a manifestation of Sicilian exuberance and must be classified among the most important and original creations of art on the island."
White stones, curled and decorated cornices in stark contrast to the blue of the sky or the sea. What a wonder.
I know Sicily very well, but this was missing from my list, or rather, I had been there as a child but it's different, so I decided to see it. I only dedicated half a day to it during a more extensive tour, but it was still worth it. But what can you see on this small island, the ancient heart of the city of Syracuse? This is what I saw (and didn't see) in just over half a day, losing myself in this Sicilian treasure.
The Market
Located right at the beginning of the island. The market is very characteristic, you can find cheeses, spices, cold cuts, and, of course, plenty of fish. It's open every day except Sunday, only in the morning, until 2:00 pm. A great place for lunch or a snack. I passed by at the beginning, and despite the time, I also tasted some fish, challenging my fear of open-air markets, accustomed as we are to having everything perfectly treated and sanitized. I ate very well, bought some souvenirs, and continued to explore the island.
Get Lost in the Alleys
All to be discovered, to get lost and find yourself, without looking at the map, but looking up at the buildings, the balconies, the details. Living in the moment, feeling part of the places is fundamental for me. Traveling for me is also this. Getting lost without a destination, savoring, observing. I used to be a compulsive traveler, I had to visit everything I could, now I prefer to visit one thing less but enjoy the moment, live it, savor it.
Duomo and Piazza del Duomo
From the alleys, this large, rectangular, white square suddenly opens up. It's splendid, dazzling. I sat at a table to observe it and take a coffee break while admiring this wonder. Surrounded by richly decorated Baroque buildings, this long rectangular square stands on what was once the acropolis of Syracuse. Now, besides two churches, there are several palaces, some of which are visitable. As the name suggests, the Duomo is located in this square, which is immense, dating back to the 7th century on the ruins of a Greek temple from the 5th century BC in honor of Athena, and you can still see the Doric columns both inside and outside the building. I visited this, it was worth it.
Fountain of Arethusa
Walking through the alleys towards the sea, you arrive at a body of water nestled between the streets and the sea. Despite being right by the sea, there has been drinking water here since ancient times, when the fountain was the city's main water reserve. Now it's a water basin populated by papyrus plants, one of only two papyrus beds existing in Italy. It's called this from the Greek myth of Arethusa, according to legend, she was a nymph whom Artemis transformed into a spring to protect her from the advances of a river god, she crossed underground and appeared here as the Fountain of Arethusa, thus providing water to the city.
The Castle
It's located on the extreme tip of the island, once a strategic position for monitoring what was happening in the open sea. I wasn't able to visit the interior, but I still want to mention it because I know it's beautiful and I will return. It's visitable, and inside there's a beautiful room with a vaulted ceiling. A must-see, I will definitely come back.
That's how my day ended, of course, I didn't visit all the palaces on the island, but I savored the essence in those alleys, calmly, walking, observing, and eating local food along the way. A magical place that I highly recommend visiting if you're in the area.
And you, do you have a style you love?
Thank you for these amazing pictures!!
I am planning to spend time in Syracuse & Ortigia in October 2025 for the first time! (Will be my first trip to Sicily and I am sooo excited!) I am going to save your post and come back to it when I start planning. :)