A Day in Capri

A brief visit amidst breathtaking beauty and Over-Tourism

Last week, I was near Naples for a friend's wedding. The B&B where I stayed was at the base of Mount Vesuvius, and my room's terrace offered a FABULOUS view of the entire bay. To the left, the Sorrentine Peninsula, to the right, Naples, and directly in front of me, Capri, in its iconic shape, nestled between sea and sky, basking in the sun and floating in the cool waters. The view was stunning. My friends and I decided to visit one of Italy's most iconic islands, always a symbol of the Dolce Vita.

Capri from the coast (a piece of view from my B&b Terrace)

I had been there years ago, and what I remember was the slightly high prices (at the time I was a student, so this mattered), and the incredible beauty. "Let's try again," I thought. After all, it was a Tuesday in early August, "maybe there won't be too many people."

First thing to do is check the ferries to get there. Ferries depart from almost everywhere: Naples, Torre del Greco, various locations on the Sorrentine Peninsula, and the Amalfi Coast. It's hard to give specific advice; you need to figure out where you are and which is the most convenient. In our case, the closest one left too early, and we were unsure when the wedding would end, as we also had children with us. We chose a late morning ferry from Sorrento, another beautiful city on the peninsula, which I highly recommend. Stunning.

We arrived, parked the car in an extremely expensive garage nearby (but if you're driving, there's no other option), and took a ferry that lasted about 50 minutes. There weren't many people, but it was incredibly hot. So, first tip to note: if you take one of these ferries with other people, arrive early and grab the coolest spots, maybe upstairs in the shade or downstairs at the bow where the cool breeze comes in. This is especially important if you're traveling in summer, as the heat is overwhelming.

Upon arrival, Capri looked just as beautiful as I remembered. However, stepping off the ferry, I noticed something new: an incredible number of tourists. We could barely move. Probably, the ferry was empty because we arrived late, and everyone was already there, but I didn't expect such a crowd.

Most famous spot of Capri

The Prices

We stopped to eat at the port before heading up, and the prices were high compared to standard rates. I'm not sure how foreign tourists perceive this, and if you feel like sharing your thoughts in the comments, please do, because abroad, average incomes are generally higher than in Italy. For us, a significant price difference between a moderately touristy place and a highly touristy one makes a difference. When a coffee in Milan typically costs 1.2 Euros even in the center (1.3 at Camparino, a historic cocktail bar at Milan's Duomo), it's surprising to find it at 5 Euros at Capri's port (even more in Piazzetta). This pricing issue is not unique to Capri but applies to "highly touristy" destinations like Piazza San Marco in Venice, Piazza della Signoria in Florence, etc. But here, it seems even more extreme. That said, it's a vacation, the place is beautiful, we had lunch with a view of the boats, the food was of average quality, typical tourist spot, but we were satisfied.

The Beauty

Next, we took the funicular up. Again, lots of people, very hot, but the view is incredible. Up there, it's even better. Capri's Piazzetta reminds me of old Italian films from the '60s; it almost feels like I can hear the background music when I look out from those railings and admire the scenery. From there, the village unfolds with its small streets, luxury hotels, and many little shops for shopping. It's very pleasant to stroll through these streets, admiring what’s around like the charming Church of Santo Stefano, right in the main square.

View from Capri’s piazzetta

Over-Tourism

Since I don’t want to dwell on the things to see in Capri, which we all somewhat know or can easily find, I’d like to reflect on the experience. Capri is magnificent, as are other beauties around the world. The problem of over-tourism affects many of the world’s most iconic (and easily accessible) spots. I saw people in Santorini queuing to watch the sunset, trying to secure a good spot with a view (I wrote about it in a comment in this interesting piece) . In other European cities, I had trouble entering museums because (my mistake) I hadn't booked in advance. Tourists are not to be condemned, as they also inconvenience us when we are tourists ourselves. I was a daily Italian tourist in Capri; why should I blame others who had the same idea? Me yes and them no?

I don't know what the solution is, and perhaps no one does yet. Many cities are experimenting with limited access or restricted numbers of B&Bs.

A view from the top

Making the Most of It

What we tourists can do is: either choose alternative destinations, and I try to share many less famous yet beautiful places in Italy. But it’s also true that those who travel often want to see iconic spots, possibly the reason for the trip, so the second solution, in my opinion, is to change the way you visit. For example, in Santorini, to avoid queuing to see the sunset or staying in the sun for too long, I booked a table at a restaurant with a terrace and a view, so we arrived and enjoyed the sunset seated, while eating. This can also be done at cocktail bars and isn’t excessively expensive.

Regarding Capri, if you visit it for a day in summer with the heat, I would definitely go early in the morning and then take a boat trip. Capri should be seen from the sea, as it’s also about the sea. The coves, the crystal-clear water, the caves. There are boats for all budgets; it doesn’t have to be a private yacht. We didn’t go by boat this time because we had young children and limited time. I did it the previous time and it was worth it.

The sea in Capri

In any case, once you decide to visit the most exclusive island in the Mediterranean, forget the prices and crowds, and enjoy the scent of lemons, the shops, the sea, perhaps with the notes of "Capri C'est Fini" or "Volare (Nel blu dipinto di blu" in your head, and savor the landscape, the essence, the place.

"Nowhere in the world are there so many opportunities for delightful quiet as on this small island."

(Charles Dickens)

Another view of Faraglioni from “Augusto’s gardens”